It is a bit confusing. Sequoia National Park and Kings Canyon National Park are at times referenced separately, but frequently mentioned together. They were created as separate entities, Sequoia in 1890 and Kings Canyon in 1940, but now managed as one. Making it more confusing, they share borders and roadways with other public greenspaces including Sequoia National Forest, Jennie Lakes Wilderness, Monarch Wilderness, and Giant Sequoia National Monument. For the sake of this article, we will consider Sequoia and Kings Canyon as one, as we visited them on the same day.

The drive into Sequoia is very picturesque, featuring orchards and cattle farms.

As we entered the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains there were rock outcroppings amongst straw colored, dormant grass and scraggly oaks with black bark – perhaps the Black Oaks I had read about. As we climbed the foothills of the Sierra Nevada range we passed through Sequoia National Forest, which, interestingly for much of its acreage, had grassy hillsides with isolated small trees – not looking very foresty. There were sheer drops from the roadway and a paucity of guardrail. But the views were outstanding.

Once inside the park we were surprised. It was early when we stopped at the Kings Canyon Welcome Center, at about 8:30, but there were no crowds of people as we had experienced at Yosemite. There was an abundance of open parking spaces and almost a summer camp feel to the environment.

We visited the General Grant Grove in Kings Canyon National Park first, to see the General Grant Sequoia, both before the crowds got there and before the temperature reached into the nineties as was predicted on this date. Like our visit to Yosemite, the grandeur of the Sequoia trees left us in awe. This was a twin trunk specimen beside the parking lot. Notice how the bark transitions from rust color at the base to a whitish gray near the crown.

General Grant Grove is an outstanding collection of mature Sequoias. The trail is asphalt and 0.5 miles in length. The asphalt and fencing are necessary to keep the crowds from compacting the soil and roots.

The challenge with these huge specimens is trying to capture the entire tree in a photo. Sometimes, due to the terrain or sight line obstruction, it is not possible. Such was the case with the General Grant Tree. It is the second largest tree in the world by volume, measuring 268 feet in height, and 40 feet in diameter at its base.

But the grove is more than just the General Grant Tree as there are numerous other trophy Sequoia specimens.

Leaving the Grant Grove we headed north on the Kings Canyon Scenic Byway to experience the ranger recommended Junction View Overlook in Kings Canyon National Park, which is perched above the valley where the two forks of the Kings River combine. The setting was different than we had experienced in our two days in the Sierras with a lot of exposed stone and no towering trees.

The overlook was outstanding with great views onto the Kings River Valley. For some in our group this was their favorite stop of the day.

Even at a thousand feet above the river the roar of the rapids was notable.

There we also got to study some interesting plants perched precariously on the slopes.

St. John’s Wort and Yellow Yarrow

Our plan was a picnic lunch in the area of the General Sherman Tree in Sequoia National Park. To do so we would head back on the Kings Canyon Scenic Byway, which intersects with the Generals Highway that leads to the Giant Forest Area, where General Sherman is located. Along the route we stopped at several pullouts which provided great vistas on this cloudless day. The first was McGee Vista Viewpoint which overlooked a landscape that had experienced five major forest fires over the past 70 years. There was informational signage that explained how fire helps shape the Sierra Nevada landscape and ecosystem.

The Kings Canyon Overlook on the Generals Highway was a show stopper. The 180 degree views onto the forested and snow capped Sierra Nevadas mesmerized us.

There I enjoyed studying a massive Ponderosa Pine, the impressive little sibling to the Sequoias. In the first photo you can see me in the shade at the base for size reference.

Another beauty that we saw in this area was Mustang Clover, which is a member of the Phlox family. Before identifying it I just called it “the pinwheel flower”. The contrasting colors are outstanding.

Across the road from the overlook was the Buena Vista Peak Trailhead which looked inviting. I have since learned that it is a one mile “out and back” trail (2 miles total), with 400 foot altitude change, that has outstanding views as the name implies. In retrospect, I think that it would have been a rewarding time investment.

It was supposed to be a 40 minute drive via the Generals Highway, a two lane road that threads through the park. Unfortunately the route also passes through the Sequoia National Forest, which allows logging. We were held up for approximately 40 minutes as a logging crew loaded some downed logs onto trucks. It appeared that they were harvesting timber that had died by natural causes and was at risk of falling and blocking the roadway – quite practical forest management.

After lunch at the Wolverton Picnic Area we took in the outstanding collection of Sequoias at the Giant Forest, where the General Sherman tree is found. It is the largest tree in the world by volume of wood, and not surprisingly it had drawn a crowd. The descent down into the grove is significant and it is starts at over 7000 feet altitude, so the climb back up can be challenging, especially if your body has not had the opportunity to acclimate to the altitude. Our home base for this trip was in Reedley, California at an altitude of 370 feet.

Like many of the largest Sequoias, General Sherman was missing its top – a “snag” tree. These result from centuries of exposure to fire and winter storms.

This was our gang at the base of General Sherman, which measures 275 feet tall and 36 feet wide at its base. It is estimated to be 2100 years old.

It is interesting to see how little the trees had change when compared to photos from over a hundred years ago.

The Giant Forest is the main attraction for Sequoia National Park and with good reason. It hosts many of the largest Sequoias of the Sierra Nevadas and has never been logged. It also has the best day hikes of the region, giving you access to excellent Sequoia stands as well as the high country habitat. In areas that get less visitors, the asphalt and fencing are gone and hikers can amble amongst the giant trees and examine them more closely.

After seeing General Sherman we had two remaining items on our list: Moro Rock Trail and Crescent Meadow Trail. It is hard to imagine two more unique hiking experiences within a quarter mile of each other. The Moro Rock Trail is a short but challenging climb up a stone outcropping that projects high above a valley. Along the route are over 375 stairs. Many start the hike but comparatively fewer finish it.

As you start the climb railings provide security, but they are not always there. Then, as you climb higher, wind has a constant presence. It was unclear to me whether it was the vertical climb or a fear of heights that caused most to turn around.

As you walked along the edge of the precipice you were rewarded with outstanding views of the Sierra Nevada scenery including the snow covered mountains in the distance.

It was fun to share the success with our group and a couple of fellow trekkers that we bonded with along the climb. This is the view at the peak.

The Crescent Meadow hike, on the other hand, is peaceful and uncrowded. John Muir described the Crescent Meadow as “the gem of the Sierras”. The trail, which was largely empty on this date, immerses one into the Sequoia forest and alpine meadow habitat, and features many wildflowers that were new to us. On this sun drenched day the grasses, flowers, and the bark of the Sequoias lit up. This was our first unobstructed view onto a wet meadow.

The flowers were everywhere, including these Jeffrey’s Shooting Star.

As we wound around the meadow we came upon a small group of people, including a ranger, who were peering into the meadow grass and alerted us to a young black bear.

But it got less shy, came toward the group, and then bolted up a hillside. It was tagged in its right ear and the ranger stated that it was a three year old.

At the ranger’s direction we quickly left the area and headed into the Sequoia forest. There was a freshness to the forest – a scent of Christmas trees and floral. Much of the understory appeared to be the bright green Bracken Fern.

The bark of the Sequoias glowed in the low afternoon sun.

There were two Sequoia carcasses that added interest to the hike. The first was the “Chimney Tree” – a standing dead trunk that the hiker can climb into through an opening at the base, and then peer through the hollow trunk into the sky. The trunk has been hollowed out by recurrent fire.

The second was a fallen Sequoia that was converted into a log home by pioneer Hale Tharp in the late 1800s. He was a cattleman and grazed cattle in the meadows. The tannin in Sequoias slows their decomposition,.

The cabin’s furnishings are still inside.

Throughout our hikes we were treated to a parade of beautiful wildflowers. These are just a sampling.

Indian Paintbrush and Pink Stinkseed

Monkey Flower and Bigleaf Lupine

Feltleaf Violet and Torrey’s Blue-eyed Mary

Snow Plant and Sierra Iris

An additional pleasant effect was the bird song that filled the clear dry air of the forest, adding another sensory experience.

Oregon Junco and Song Sparrow

In summary, our visit to Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks was a terrific experience. Our time in the Sequoia groves to see the two largest trees in the world, and their surrounding peers, was inspiring. Seeing living organisms of their size and age gets one thinking. But the time at the overlooks and our two full hikes were just as impactful – the beauty is really not describable. I’m particularly pleased that I shared the experience with those I love and who share my love of the outdoors. If I had more time I would be sure to hike the Buena Vista Trail that I mentioned and perhaps a couple of the shorter hikes in the Giant Forest Area such as the Tokopah Falls Trail.

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Photo credits to Peggy Juengling Burns, Patrick Burns, Caroline Burns, James Grizzle, Ellen Burns, Marie Burns Dawson, and Joe Dawson.

Overview:

Location – Visalia, California, 56 miles from Fresno.

Parking – many paved and gravel lots.

Facilities – restrooms at the Welcome Centers and at the picnic areas in the park.

Trail Conditions – asphalt, bare dirt, pine needles, and native rock/gravel.

Print Trail Map Link – you are given a park map that includes the hiking trails at entry.

Benches – throughout the park and on every trail that we hiked.

Picnic Tables – in the formal picnic areas.

Kids – four and over would do well at Grants Grove and Crescent Meadow Trail. Giants Forest/Sherman Tree is a significant climb so shorter legs could struggle. One can pick up family members at a lower handicap parking area if they are not up to the climb back up. The Moro Rock climb is very challenging with certainly an element of danger and I would probably limit it to those 8 and older.

Dogs – are prohibited on most trails. Please see website for more information.

Links:

https://www.nps.gov/seki/index.htm

https://www.redwoodhikes.com/SequoiaNP/GiantForest.html