I have written many times about how the photographer loves when an outing marries history with nature – this was one of those adventures.
This was the photographer’s and my fourth trip to Key West and the first without kids, and we had long ago decided that this was the time that we would bite off the 70 mile, 2.5 hour, Yankee Freedom ferry trip to Dry Tortugas National Park.
It was a week of unseasonably cold weather, with temps 20 degrees colder than usual for early February, but we were lucky and got a day of somewhat milder temps and beautiful sunshine. The boat ride was cold, but the water and islands were lovely.
The seven islands of the Dry Tortugas were “discovered” by Ponce de Leon, who named the group of islands Las Tortugas – “The Turtles”, due to the number of turtles who swam in the waters surrounding the islands in the Gulf of Mexico, identifying the area as a possible source of nutrition for seafaring men. Eventually, when the British were drawing up their map of the Caribbean, they termed them the “Dry Tortugas”, to make sure that sailors understood that there was no fresh water on the islands.
Historically, the Dry Tortugas were of nautical importance as they were the site of the only deep water harbor along the Gulf of Mexico shipping lanes. Ships used the harbor for protection during storms and as a place to perform critical repairs. After ships switched from sails to steam in the mid to late 19th century, two large coaling stations were developed here.
Dry Tortugas National Park totals approximately 100 square miles, but 99% of it is open water and the associated coral reefs beneath the surface. Ponce de Leon’s seven small islands are the only land of the park.
We had prepped for an opportunity to snorkel on the coral reef that ends at the Dry Tortugas, but our Yankee Freedom guide made it very clear on the cruise to the island that he thought it was foolhardy. The water temp was 68 degrees, which he referred to as a “Key West Polar Plunge”. He also noted that the islands had experienced rough seas the previous two days and was confident that visibility in the water was going to be poor. We resigned ourselves to a terrestrial visit – it was a good decision.
Fort Jefferson is the major structure associated with the Dry Tortugas and the destination for the ferry. With initial construction beginning in 1846, it was the largest of the nineteenth century forts that were built to defend the coast of the U.S., both along the Atlantic seaboard and the Gulf of Mexico, and it played a critical role in the Union’s blockade of the Gulf of Mexico ports during the Civil War. The structure nearly covers the entirety of Garden Key.
It is a massive building, designed to be armed with over 400 canons of various caliber, and house 1500 men. It is the largest masonry structure in the United States, constructed with over 16 million handmade bricks.
It had an expansive parade ground inside.
The architecture of the series of casements that were to hold large cannons was mesmerizing. The remnants of metal arcs that allowed for redirection of the cannons were noted on the floor. There were three stories of these casements.
Of note, within the walls of Fort Jefferson was some nature to be enjoyed: Brown Pelican, Blue Porterweed, and Palm Warbler.
After our formal tour, a picnic lunch, and a self guided walk through the fort, we took our guide’s suggestion and ventured across the sand isthmus that currently connects Garden Key, where the fort is located, to Bush Key, a nearby bird sanctuary. We had watched some Magnificent Frigatebirds glide above the lighthouse on the southeastern corner of the fort and wanted to observe them more closely.
The connection between the two keys is transitory, depending on currents and storm surges. Another piece of good luck – we were there just before the National Park Service closes Bush Key for breeding season, typically from February to September. The island is the only major nesting site for Magnificent Frigatebirds, Sooty Terns and Brown Noddies in the continental U.S.
While most hikers on our tour ventured onto the southern beach of the island, we headed toward the north beach as that seemed to be where the Frigatebirds were most aerial.
One of our first sightings was a clump of Aloe vera, a welcomed tropical for those of us escaping the frozen Midwest. It is native to the Arabian Peninsula but has naturalized to much of the Caribbean. Extracts from the plant have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties and served a myriad of medicinal uses, especially for skin conditions.
Bush Key is undeveloped and there is something about an unspoiled dune habitat that intrigues me.
Rounding a corner we had this view onto the azure waters and the Frigatebirds doing acrobatics above the shore. The Frigatebird is named for the fast moving ships favored by pirates – due to the speed and agility of their flight, like the maneuverability of the ships, and due to their behavior of stealing prey from other species of birds. The theft behavior, while at times overemphasized, is really just supplemental to their own hunting. They frequently feed on flying fish, crustaceans, jellyfish, and squid found on the ocean’s surface.
As we walked along the shore and got closer to the colony of Frigatebirds, their shrill calls were overwhelming. This was our first time to see them up close. The deeply forked tail is an identifying feature for all five Frigatebird species and aids them in their acrobatic flight. As they glided by we could easily identify them to sex and age.
The male Magnificent Frigatebird is all black with the exception of its inflatable red pouch. This pouch is only really noted during breeding season. During the remainder of the year it is shrunken and gray.
The female has a white chest and golden bars on their shoulders.
The adolescents of both sexes have a white head and chest.
Eventually we came upon a sign directing us to advance no further. We were fifty yards from the birds’ rookery where perhaps 100 birds were noted.
With a paucity of trees and a lack of predators, the Frigates appeared to be nesting on the ground about twenty five yards from the shore. The inflated pouch of the males, used to attract females, were easily seen. They were nestled in amongst a large grouping of Prickly Pear Cacti.
After enjoying our time with the Magnificent Frigatebirds, we doubled back along the beach, now with more time for study of the flotsam thrown upon the shore by the recent high seas.
The most notable finding were numerous Portuguese Man-of-War jellyfish. These laid credence to a warning from our guide, that they might be another reason to avoid snorkeling at the time of our visit.
In addition we saw a few notable shells.
Here we have a little seaweed along with a chunk of bleached coral. Pieces of coral were very common on the beaches of the keys.
Lastly a Red Mangrove seedpod. Mangroves are one of the most important elements of the Keys’ ecological community.
As we headed back we could also appreciate our view onto Fort Jefferson from Bush Key. It is the little inlet in front of us that will at times extend to separate Bush Key from Garden Key. Coastlines are ever changing.
In summary, our outing to the Dry Tortugas National Park was outstanding. The formal tour and our independent stroll through the fort were informative. I feel that we made the most of our visit given the realities of the season’s weather. Our decision to hike on Bush Key was rewarded with some outstanding time observing the Magnificent Frigatebirds. The trade off is if you come in the winter you get to hike Bush Key, if you come in the summer, Bush Key is closed due to nesting birds, but the seas are calmer and the snorkeling is excellent. Either season you win.
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Photo credits to Peggy Juengling Burns.
Overview
Location – The Yankee Freedom Ferry Terminal is at 100 Grinnell Street, Key West, FL 33040. It costs $255 per person ($235 if you have a National Park Pass, which covers 4 people) and includes breakfast and lunch. You can also travel to the Dry Tortugas by seaplane which costs about $500 per person. That information in available on the link included below.
Parking – the ferry terminal is within walking distance of much of Old Town Key West. There is a city parking garage nearby on Grinnell Street.
Facilities – at the terminal and on the ferry. While on the island it is requested that you continue to use the ferry’s facilities.
Trail Conditions – compacted and loose sand typical of a beach walk. There are two flights of circular stairs on the formal tour.
Benches – none on the hike but many within the fort.
Picnic Tables – many between the ferry dock and Fort Jefferson.
Kids – kids 4 and over should do fine.
Dogs – Welcomed on a leash on Garden Key but not on Bush Key or inside the fort.
Suggested Paired Hikes – none
Links: