We headed south of Louisville, to Bernheim Forest, to extend our leaf color season, and to hike with our grand-dog Cappy. She is a true hiking enthusiast.
Oh, how we wished we lived closer to Bernheim Forest. At over 16,000 acres it is the largest privately owned forest in the Eastern U.S. and has a variety of habitats including wetlands, grasslands, mixed woodlands, and a large formal arboretum. With over 40 miles of trails, no visit there is ever the same.
During their marriage, Isaac Bernheim, a successful liquor wholesaler and distiller, and his wife Amanda, dreamt of donating their 300 acre estate in the Louisville suburb of Anchorage to become a park and arboretum. After Amanda’s death in 1922, Isaac dreamt bigger, and in 1928 acquired 12,000 acres of abused land south of Louisville. The site had been a mix of exploitive industries including mining, lumbering, and poor quality agriculture. In 1929 he set up an endowment, providing the financial resources for a full scale rehabilitation of the land, and the implementation of his and Amanda’s vision to integrate art into nature and to give the public a place to find peace and renewal. In the 1930s, the world famous Olmsted Landscape Architects were enlisted for the major site planning of the arboretum and to design ponds on the property. Some areas had trees replanted and agricultural fields were returned to meadows, but much of the property was allowed to recover through natural ecological succession. Over two decades later, in 1950, Bernheim Forest opened to the public. Unfortunately, Isaac had passed away in 1946, and did not get to see the people of Louisville enjoy his gift to the region.
For this visit, I selected the Iron Ore Hill Loop because it wove through a maturing wood and offered valley views, which are attractive during the fall. This area was the site of an iron ore production facility in the 1830s and 40s.
The first thing we noted upon starting the hike was the number of acorns on the trail. It was a bit like walking on marbles.
When you review the earlier terrain map what you notice is that this is not a ridge trail, but rather a series of climbs and descents, with short stretches on the flat terrain of a ridge.
The path weaves through a beautiful mid-aged wood of mixed oaks, Sugar Maples, Virginia Pine, Hickory, and American Beech. The tree variety gave a palette of colors, especially since the Sugar Maples were at their peak.
I believe that the Virginia Pines that we saw were probably part of the succession wood that originally repopulated the land when the mining and lumbering had ceased. They were few in number, huge, and waning. We saw no young Virginia Pines.
The trail was often in a depression in the ground, suggesting that it could be a challenge in wet weather.
That said, it was a beautiful stroll through a forest with an open understory that featured exposed limestone and ferns – a peaceful setting overall.
As the loop doubled back toward the trailhead, Sugar Maple became the predominant tree, resulting in a brilliant golden glow to the entire forest.
The trail ends at one of the featured attractions of Bernheim – The Canopy Tree Walk – an elevated boardwalk positioned 75 feet above the forest floor, giving one intimate views into the nearby trees as well as outstanding vistas. It is a “must see” when you visit Bernheim and is near the trailhead and parking area, allowing visitors to enjoy it without the rigors of a hike.
Odds and Ends:
Sources of fall color can be surprising, such as the exposed meat (cotyledons) of these Chestnut Oak acorns. I have not seen that in other oak species.
A few weeks ago I listed my ranking of tree species by fall color and my number one choice was Sugar Maple. Our visit to Bernheim only reinforced its ranking.
This Turkey Tail fungus on a log was interesting. It appears that some woodland fauna has been feeding on the lower down mushrooms, with only the base of the mushrooms remaining – perhaps small mammals such as squirrels, chipmunks, mice or voles, or even Box Turtles.
On this outing I had a humbling tree identification experience. On the forest floor I noted numerous leaves and acorns of Chestnut Oak, a member of the White Oak family, which also includes American White Oak, Chinkapin Oak, Bur Oak, and several others.
But I was perplexed as the bark on these trees was dark and deeply grooved (left photo below), not having the gray plaques that I associate with the White Oak Family (right photo below). When I got back to our vehicle I pulled out the tree key that I have been using for 45 years, which described the Chestnut Oak’s bark as “dark, deeply furrowed” – an outlier of the White Oak Family – live and learn.
Another interesting observation on the Chestnut Oak was that its acorns were already sending down tap roots, something that I do not recall seeing at this time of year in other oak species. They are the white, finger like projections arising from the acorns in the photos below.
One of the joys of visiting Bernheim is the art work that you just happen upon, integrated into the landscape. First we noted one titled Oxygen, along the road as we were leaving the Tree Canopy Walk. Study it closely. Built out of Beech branches, signage told that it is a metaphor for mankind’s dependence on broad swathes of forest for the production of oxygen.
Another fun and popular piece of art was The Heart of the Forest, a 27 foot aluminum Tin Man from The Wizard of Oz, who happens to be my favorite character in the movie. Signage states that the Tin Man represents a change of heart, one of embracing nature rather than the destruction and exploitation of it. The woodsman’s axe is no longer for felling trees, but rather for “cutting ties with habits that are harmful to the environment”. I particularly enjoyed the grandfatherly features of his face.
As we wound down our visit we opted to stop at the aptly named Big Prairie Overlook.
There we got another art surprise, as just behind us stood Let There Be Light, a statue that was part of a memorial fountain marking the graves of Isaac and Amanda Bernheim. The statue was cast in 1928 and originally placed at the Bernheim plot in Louisville’s historic Cave Hill Cemetery. The statue, and the couple’s graves, were moved to Bernheim Forest in 1956.
The granite towers to either side of the statue represent the Jewish and Christian faiths and a plaque advocates for understanding and fellowship amongst citizens. Seems to be timely advice.
In summary, it was another outstanding Footpaths visit to Bernheim Forest. The goodwill that Isaac and Amanda Bernheim’s dream has brought to the Central Kentucky region can not be over appreciated. From the smile of the staff member who greets you at the entry, to the outstanding and imaginative artwork, and the well maintained trails, Bernheim Forest is one positive and refreshing nature experience after another, just as Isaac and Amanda Bernheim dreamt. You could pair a visit to Bernheim with a bourbon experience in the nearby towns of Clermont and Bardstown and have a true Kentucky adventure.
Photo credits to Peggy Juengling Burns.
Overview:
Location – 2075 Clermont Road, Clermont, KY, 40110, approximately 20 miles south of Louisville and about 2 hours from Cincinnati, just off I-65.
Parking – plenty of parking at the Education Center’s asphalt lot for picnicking, and ample parking at trailheads.
Facilities – At the Education Center (indoors) and some outdoor facilities along the route.
Trail Conditions – bare dirt. There were trip hazards due to tree roots and exposed stone. The Iron Ore Hill trail is 1.5 miles long and considered moderate.
Benches – none noted on the trail but several on The Tree Canopy walkway and throughout the park.
Picnic Tables – at the Education Center and many more throughout the park.
Kids – I would suggest 6 and over due to the terrain change, but many trails at Bernheim would be suitable for kids of all ages.
Dogs – welcomed in outdoor areas while on a leash.
Suggested Paired Hikes – There are numerous hikes within Bernheim Forest, ranging from 0.25 mile to almost 14 miles, with ratings from easy to difficult. Their website has excellent descriptions.
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