One of my favorite habitats to hike are old-growth forests. There is something about the majestic old trees that brings me peace and causes me to ponder. What I wouldn’t give to be able to travel back in time to when most of North America was old-growth forest.
So I was excited when I stumbled upon the mention of a 28 acre old-growth forest at the 108 acre Shrader-Weaver Nature Preserve – within striking distance from home. Twenty eight acres is a comparatively large remnant of old-growth woods, at least in the mid-west and south – preservation was not a priority when folks were just trying to put food on the table and thought that our natural resources were limitless.
Public access to this jewel began in 1972 when the Weaver family gifted the land to the Nature Conservancy, who then transferred the property to the Indiana Division of Natural Resources in 1974. It has been recognized as a National Landmark by the National Park Service, and certified by the Old-Growth Forest Network.
At Shrader-Weaver a single trail leaves the parking lot and enters a somewhat young wood. Interestingly, the species noted included those typical of more mature woods: Sugar Maple, Black Cherry, Tulip-poplar, and Oaks. The trees were tall for the diameter of their trunks, and lacked branches for much of their height – a growth pattern driven by competition for sunlight.
Then we came upon this massive Black Walnut, which, by contrast, had large lateral branches relatively close to the ground. This suggested to us that for much of its life it had no competition and was probably a shade tree in a farm pasture. When you factor in trunk width and branch reach, it was by far the largest Black Walnut that I had ever seen – until later in the walk.
A short distance further, the entry trail gave rise to two trails: The Woods and Succession Trails. We were here for the Woods loop trail. At this joint trailhead there was a box that held a visitor log and we were somewhat intrigued when we noted that some visitors came on back to back days – after our visit we understood why. This place is captivating.
Almost immediately upon entering the Woods Trail we saw massive trees arising across the flat landscape, such as this Tulip-poplar, which was branchless for perhaps sixty feet or more.
There were a surprising number of towering Black Walnuts on the first part of the loop.
The impressive trees appeared one after another, giving a cathedral effect to the setting. While on-line sites listed this as an “upland beech-sugar maple forest”, we were also seeing great specimens of Black Walnut, Tulip-poplar, Black Cherry, and Bur Oak.
This is a look up into the Bur Oak pictured in the title photo.
This Black Cherry was the largest of the species that I have ever seen. There were numbers placed alongside the trail at the base of trees. I suspect that they are the remains of a self-guided educational hiking guide that is no longer in existence, as each appeared to be associated with a different species of tree.
Massive Tulip-poplars commonly occurred in clusters.
Old-growth forests are also characterized by things other than big trees. First, there will be areas where only young trees are present after a giant had been lost to age or weather, with new sunlight allowing for a burst of growth. It is a race to see who will become the next matriarch of the forest.
And these fallen giants can take decades to fully decay.
Fungi, mosses, and insects are the agents that return the nutrients, that have been locked up in the tissues of the trees for centuries, to the soil.
By definition old-growth forests are unmanaged, meaning that the trees that die remain standing, becoming a “snag”. They are a tremendous resource in the form of shelter for wildlife, especially woodpeckers and owls. Given the size of these openings, I suspect that they were nesting cavities of Pileated Woodpeckers.
Hiking an old-growth forest is truly a multi-sensory experience. Perhaps the first thing you notice is the spongy nature of the humus rich soil alongside the trail. Then there is the smell of the forest, which I would describe as “fresh”. It is subtle and comforting. The sounds in these forests are also crisper and amplified. An acorn that falls in the distance is heard, and the thud of a falling walnut will literally startle you. The photographer and I were also amazed by the volume of the calls between two tiny Carolina Wrens up in the tree canopy. I suspect that the leaf canopy broadcasts these sounds down to the forest floor and to any hiker lucky enough to be there. The last sensory experience that is heightened is visual and is the one that can be captured with photography. Sunlight passes through the leaves held high above the floor and sets them aglow. That was particularly true in the parts of the forest where Sugar Maple was common, and, in some ways, is similar to brilliance seen when sunlight passes through a stained glass window.
Odds and Ends:
This large burl in a Sugar Maple caught our attention. Burl wood, with its unique and chaotic grain pattern, was used a lot in furniture manufacturing in the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s. A burl results from an abnormal growth response to some kind of insult or injury, like insect infestations or pathogens such as viruses, bacteria, or fungi. This one measured close to 3 feet in diameter
Although rain has been sparse this fall, the forest floor still felt somewhat damp. This Land Snail was at home on this damp, moss covered decaying log. As a group, Land Snails can be herbivores or omnivores, feeding on plants, fruits, fungi, decaying matter, and in some cases, invertebrates (insects and worms).
There was an enchanted forest setting where this bridge crossed over a dry creek bed. I looked, but no gnomes or fairies were seen.
Finally, you know that it is going to be a great adventure when one of the first things you see when you exit your vehicle at a preserve is a Baltimore Oriole nest above your head.
In summary, our visit to Shrader-Weaver Nature Preserve was everything that I hoped for and more. The experience caused us to fast track this post because a hike here when the Sugar Maples are aglow with yellow and orange, as they should be over the next two weeks, would make the outing even more spectacular. Since our visit I’ve learned more about the preserve and understand that it is an outstanding place to hike any season of the year. The staff at the Indiana chapter of the Nature Conservancy shared with me an old guide to the preserve that outlines the seasonal attractions at Shrader-Weaver, which I have pasted under “resources” below. With additional reading I have also come to understand that the poorly named “Succession Trail” at the preserve has an outstanding lowland forest that is one of the best places in Indiana to see spring ephemeral wildflowers, including the late winter blooming Skunk Cabbage. Footpaths has penciled in a visit for next April to enjoy a reportedly amazing Blue-eyed Mary display.
If you are not in the Cincinnati area and would like to experience an old-growth forest hike I would encourage you to visit the Old-Growth Forest Network’s website that I have linked below. Their map will help you find an old-growth forest near you.
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Photo credits to Peggy Juengling Burns.
Overview:
Location – 5299 N County Rd 450 W, Connersville, IN 47331. It is 69 miles from downtown Cincinnati.
Parking – Large gravel lot.
Facilities – None.
Trail Conditions – bare dirt. The trail is approximately a mile long. There is no map at the trailhead but the trail was easily followed.
Print Trail Map Link – none. There is one on All Trails.
Benches – none.
Picnic Tables – none.
Kids – kids four and over should do well.
Dogs – allowed on a leash.
Paired Hiking Trails – The Succession Trail leaves from the same trailhead and is also about a mile long.
Links:
https://www.nature.org/en-us/get-involved/how-to-help/places-we-protect/shrader-weaver-woods/
https://www.oldgrowthforest.net/
Resources:
Shrader-Weaver Nature Preserve
There is simply too much to see in one visit at Shrader-Weaver Nature Preserve. The 108-acre preserve owned and managed by the Indiana Department of Natural
Resources, Division of Nature Preserves was protected by The Nature Conservancy in 1973. Shrader-Weaver offers two self-guiding trails, old growth forest, floodplain and
successional forest, a seep spring, an 1830’s era homestead, and one of the best
wildflower displays in Indiana.
Winter
Winter is a good time of year to visit Shrader-Weaver Nature Preserve. Hiking the
woods trail with a layer of snow is incredibly peaceful. The towering trees and stillness
give the impression of being in a natural cathedral. Without snow, the forest is unusual in
nearly always having green groundcover. There are enough biennial and over-wintering
plants like sweet cicely and wild avens that it seems the woods never sleep. In late winter,
skunk cabbage begins to protrude its stinky spades out of the black muck of the seep
spring seen from the boardwalk of the succession trail.
Spring
Every year, pilgrimages are made from great distances to this living museum to
witness the wildflower display. Shrader-Weaver is the kind of place that is talked about
among friends, and more and more come every spring. Dutchman’s breeches, red
trilliums, nodding trillium, spring beauty, blue phlox, Solomon’s seal, violets, doll’s eyes,
mayapples, geraniums, waterleaf . . . the list goes on and on. Centuries-old trees tower
above a palette of greens, whites, yellows, blues, and reds. Twenty-eight acres of the site
is old growth forest with only dead trees removed in the past except for some tulip trees
used for propellers for WWI aircraft. Throughout April and May, the woods transform
itself with different species blooming and trees creating more and more shade. Although
the term succession trail doesn’t sound appealing, it is sometimes the biggest draw for
hikers. Carpets of blue-eyed Mary, an annual species in the figwort family, can cover the
forest floor as far as one can see along the trail. This display is in formerly grazed
lowland, which also harbors marsh marigold, swamp buttercup with ancient sycamore
and oak.
Summer
With the onset of summer the wildflowers begin to fade, and stinging nettle is the
most prominent plant in the woods. Summer is also when birds begin to put on their
annual show. With plenty of standing dead trees, cavity nesters abound. Barred Owls
hoot early in the morning, Great Crested Flycatchers call out their “wheep” repeatedly,
and titmice are fidgety as you walk through their territory. Several neo-tropical migrant
species can be found here in June, including Cerulean Warblers, Blue-gray Gnatcatchers,
Scarlet Tanagers, Baltimore Orioles, Red-eyed Vireos, Acadian Flycatchers, Ovenbirds,
and Wood Thrush. This is also a good time to see some unusual plants blooming in the
seep spring along the succession trail. Queen of the prairie may be the most striking
flower at the preserve, but requires open sun to proliferate. Restoration has slowly begun
in the seep to encourage this and other species like Michigan lily, swamp goldenrod, cup
plant, and the many sedge species that dominate the community.
Fall
The presence of sugar maples in the old growth woods is most pronounced in
autumn when their leaves turn golden and orange. Without many displays of fall flowering plants, this is a good time to think about some other aspects of the preserve. At
the edge of the successional area, the trail passes a pile of stones. These are glacial
erratics, brought down from Canada and dumped here by the glaciers. More accurately,
dumped in the area and then drug and piled at the woods edge for easier plowing. One
may notice chunks of granite protruding all along the woods trail, an indication it was
never under the plow. The caretaker living on the grounds protects the homestead and
barn, built from on site wood and clay. It was agreed by The Nature Conservancy and
Laz and Edith Weaver, who donated this land, that someone live on site to protect these
structures and the walnut grove. Yep, walnut grove. Perhaps the best stand of old growth
black walnut anywhere in North America is found at Shrader-Weaver, including the state
champion specimen. A windstorm in 1991 took down several large denizens of the grove
but did not spoil its grandeur. Although worth tens of thousands of dollars when they fell,
the downed trees have been allowed to decompose, giving refuge to salamanders, food
for chickadees, and nutrients for the soil to produce the next generation of old growth
forest.
Cliff Chapman