I wasn’t sure what to expect heading to this small, 85 acre preserve. It is an Ohio State Nature Preserve somewhat close to home that we had not visited. I knew that the preserve featured a gorge as well as a mature Tulip-poplar forest, both inviting environs during the heat of an Ohio River Valley August.
The preserve consists of an entry trail and three relatively short loop trails.
The entry trail struck me as an old farm lane. Later sightings of naturalized hostas and Ghost Lilies at the end of the wide path confirmed that impression.
It had filtered sunlight, allowing some late summer wildflowers to flourish:
Hairy Wood Mint, Whorled Rosinweed, Tall Bellflower, Tall Hairy Agrimony, and Carolina Elephant Foot.
Near the end of the entry trail we found a very short path to an overlook. For some reason it is marked with a parking symbol in the map above. In this photo it is hard to appreciate, but you are overlooking a small natural bridge, which is covered with plants, including trees. What was more striking to me was the sound of falling water that I heard arising from the valley below.
A short distance down the trail we got to a point where the three trails that make up the preserve arise in close approximation. The sound of the falling water won out and we headed right onto the Arch Trail. As we entered the trail we saw the source of the sounds, the briskly running Rocky Fork Creek down in the valley.
As the trail headed south we soon had another view up to the short, but wide, natural bridge that we had seen earlier.
The trail slowly descended into the gorge where we came upon the loop segment of the Arch Trail. We headed left toward the stream, where we could see a large number of keeper size Smallmouth Bass in a creek pool.
A neat feature of the pool was this slump rock near the opposite shore, which was covered in plants. Slump rocks seem to have a plant community all their own.
As the trail reversed direction, and we walked the more elevated portion of the loop, we could appreciate the limestone bluffs of this section of the gorge.
After completing the Arch Trail we headed onto the Waterfall Trail, where we quickly found a bench that offered this setting.
From the same bench we had this view to our right.
Up on the ledge we could appreciate a grouping of flowering plants that we could not get close enough to identify. We got this shot with a telephoto lens.
The Waterfall Trail heads into a wider section of the gorge with its bluffs and slump rocks, and
delivers the hiker to an extended walk on the west bank of the beautiful Rocky Fork Creek.
As we stood on the shoreline we noted hikers on the hillside above the opposite bank. Through a challenging conversation over the roar of rushing water, we found that they were hiking the Arc of Appalachia’s Highland Nature Preserve, which also protects the gorge.
On the rocky shore we were excited to see these two Swallowtails consorting on the stones. At the time we thought that they were both Eastern Tiger Swallowtails, with the male being yellow and the female displaying the dark form. It is thought that the dark form is an evolutionary development that allows some females to mimic the poisonous Pipevine Swallowtail, and therefore lessen their risk of predation. Once we studied the photos however, we noted the white dots on the body of the dark butterfly and realized that it is indeed an actual Pipevine Swallowtail. Perhaps the male was also fooled by the similarity between the two.
We continued heading north alongside the creek when we came upon the waterfall featured in the title photo.
In this area we had to work our way beneath this rock encroachment.
Deep in the gorge, this photo best displays the shady setting.
Noted were large swathes of Glade Fern, one of the larger ferns of the eastern deciduous forest. It can grow up to 4 foot tall.
The pattern of the spore containing sori on the underside of the leaves is striking.
As we started to climb out of the gorge we again found ourselves at the base of the limestone bluffs,
and there we noted Sullivantia, growing on the stone. It is perhaps the rarest of the plants found in the preserve. The plant is inconspicuous and the flowers understated, but it is still exciting to see rare species.
The final climb out of the gorge was assisted by some stairs, from which we could appreciate another small natural bridge.
Once out of the gorge, the trail winds through a ridgetop deciduous wood. Signage noted the location of the rare Snow Trillium that would be found in mid-March. In August, the leaf litter featured a broad array of fungi.
But the one that got our attention was this one. It looks benign and similar to the button mushrooms that you can buy in the grocery, but it is a Destroying Angel, one of the most toxic mushrooms in the world. They can cause liver and kidney failure and are often fatal if ingested.
Perhaps my favorite mushroom photos of the day were these two of Orange Moss Navel mushrooms arising amongst Juniper Haircap Moss. In the first photo you can see the golf club shaped sporangia that hold the moss’s spores, and the tiny orange mushrooms that are about the size of a pencil eraser. In the second photo you can see the little depression in the mushrooms caps that resemble a navel (belly button), and give the mushroom its name.
Crossing the ridge the trail delivered us to the ledge where we had noted the grouping of white flowers from the bench earlier. We were able to identify them as White-topped Wood Asters. Compared to most asters, it is quite shade tolerant, requiring only 2 to 3 hours of sun per day, which it could get on the exposed ledge.
Completing the Waterfall Trail, one crosses a creek on a bridge and can see the solid limestone base of the stream.
The final loop trail in the preserve is the Tulip Trail, which features a mature forest with a large collection of Tulip-poplars. This trail is on land that is the most recent addition to the preserve and on what was part of the Miller Family’s working farm. Initially the trail passes through a unremarkable progression wood, but eventually you find yourself in a forest with stately Tulip-poplars with two to three foot wide trunks.
The healthy open understory showed evidence of spring ephemerals, as well as a variety of ferns including Silver Glade Fern.
Odds and Ends –
In the deepest part of the gorge we noted two species of Cohosh which are both foraged for herbal supplements. Historically, they were used for a variety of gynecological conditions.
White Cohosh – also goes by the name of Baneberry and Doll’s Eyes. Interestingly, despite its use in folk medicine, all parts of the plants are considered poisonous.
Within twenty feet we also saw Black Kohosh. In contrast, it is not considered poisonous and is still used to treat menopause symptoms.
We found the textures and contrasts of this lichen on a streamside stone interesting.
I could not help but share this outstanding photo of a Blue-fronted Dancer damsel fly. Its coloration and the detail of its anatomy is fascinating.
This Zebra Swallowtail danced around us as we walked the exit trail back to our vehicle.
In summary, Miller Nature Sanctuary is an outstanding venue. It is perhaps the most accessible gorge trail that we have done. The hiker is rewarded with excellent views onto the bluffs, slump rocks, and the beautiful streams, which provide a comforting hum of falling water and adds to the sense of peace. Without a doubt this is a four season trail – spring ephemerals including the rare Snow Trillium, a diverse collection of ferns in the summer, undoubtedly beautiful fall leaf color, and better visualization of the gorge features in the winter. I think that a hike in the snow here would be absolutely beautiful and memorable.
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Photo credits to Caroline Burns Grizzle.
Overview:
Location – 13654 Barrett Mill Rd, Bainbridge, Ohio, 71 miles from downtown Cincinnati. There was no road signage as such, so GPS was a Godsend.
Parking – gravel lot for 8-10 cars.
Trail Conditions – gravel and mowed grass on the entry trail. Remainder generally bare dirt with some exposed stone. Grades are mild overall. One set of steep stairs. Trails are very well signed. We walked 2.6 miles on this hike.
Print Map Link – https://dam.assets.ohio.gov/image/upload/ohiodnr.gov/documents/natural-areas/maps/Miller_8_5x11.pdf
Facilities – none
Benches – one noted.
Picnic Tables – none.
Kids – I would suggest 6 and over.
Dogs – prohibited.
Suggested Paired Hikes – Arc of Appalachia’s Highland Nature Sanctuary is only 3 miles away and has several trails including Barrett’s Rim Trail which traverses the other side of Rocky Fork Gorge.
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