I would not describe this venue as an after thought following our hiking in the national parks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. It was purposefully chosen because it was near our vacation rental and because it would give us another look at the Kings River before we returned home.

The day before, we visited Kings Canyon National Park, hiking along the beautiful and dynamic “upper” Kings River. To see the river in the San Joaquin Valley, what is referred to as the “lower” Kings River, would give us additional insight into the waterway’s ecosystem.

The view as we approached the park was outstanding, as noted in the title photo. One can see the Pine Flat Dam, which was built in the1950s. It serves many purposes: hydroelectric power, flood control, water conservation, community water supply, and irrigation. The river provides water for the irrigation of 1,200,000 acres of some of the nation’s most productive farmland and 28 water districts.

North Riverside Access Park, which lies below the dam, is for recreation.

This park, number 2 on the map below, is one of 27 parks and preserves that comprise the “Ribbon of Gems”, a series of greenspaces that protect the lower Kings River, and allow the populace to enjoy this ecological resource.

The river’s water was crystal clear and the current was strong, driven by the June snowmelt in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The river was just within its banks at the time of our visit. One could expect to see much less flow and lower water levels later in the summer.

This area is thirty-five miles east of Fresno and relatively unpopulated. Still there were many fishermen seeking trout and others enjoying a tube float with the current. We were the only hikers on this day. The trail is clear and winds through a grassland with scattered trees and shrubs.

It offered expansive views onto the dormant grasses and hillsides of central California.

But to our left, the views were of the river.

One of the notable plants were the Willows which at times grew helter skelter on the banks of the stream,

but also held footholds in the middle of the stream. Undoubtedly the wind blown willow seeds germinate on these islands when the water level is lower in late summer and fall.

During our June visit the Willows were flowering.

The shoreline alternated between being open with nice vistas,

and being covered with plants. These thickets provide excellent habitat for wildlife.

And wildlife there was, although much of it was on the small scale. We enjoyed watching the California Ground Squirrel, identified by its mottled fur on its trunk, bound along the trailside boulders. They live in communal burrows but interestingly, each squirrel has its own entrance.

We also saw a number of lizards. I believe that these are San Joaquin Fence Lizards.

Red-tailed Hawks soared overhead in the bright blue sky. Red-tails are found in all 48 continental states, as well as Alaska.

Wild grasslands are a great place to observe insects and we were rewarded on this hike. The photos of this male Flame Skimmer Dragonfly are outstanding. The detail of the wings is fascinating.

This male Common Whitetail Dragonfly‘s coloration, by comparison, is muted.

The Lorquin’s Admiral butterfly’s range is limited to California, Oregon, Washington, western Montana and Idaho, and lower British Columbia.

Western Cloudywings have a preference for streamside habitat. Exactly where we found it.

Perhaps the most interesting insect was this Tarantula Hawk Wasp that was visiting some milkweed. They lay their eggs singly on the underside of the abdomen of a tarantula spider. The egg hatches and the larvae will slowly consume the spider while the spider continues to live. The process typically takes over thirty days before the spider dies. Adults are nectarivorous, getting most of their energy from pollen and nectar. Milkweed flowers are one of their favorite food sources, and likewise, the Hawk Wasp is an important pollinator of Milkweed.

In addition to the Milkweed we saw a collection of other flowers in bloom:

Shortpod Mustard (non-native), Sonoma Hedgenettle (native), Scarlet Spiderling (native), Twiggy Mullein (non-native), and Devil’s Trumpet (non-native).

We were somewhat surprised by the presence of this plant – a Fig. Figs were brought to California by the Spaniards in the 1700s, and have naturalized. In some areas it is considered invasive.

And because I am a tree guy I have to post this – my first observation of Valley Oak. It is the largest of the California oaks, reaching heights over 100 feet, and can live for up to six hundred years. It requires abundant water and therefore is generally found in valleys with ample year round groundwater.

Upon reflection, it was interesting to see both sections of the 133 mile long Kings River. Up in the Sierra Nevada, two forks, the Middle and South, come together in the Monarch Wilderness, which is located just outside of Kings Canyon National Park. The upper river is bound by canyon walls and the water is raging. Later, the North Fork joins them just east of the Pine Flat Dam. By contrast the lower river is wider, weaving through the farms and communities of the broad San Joaquin Valley. Interestingly, it eventually divides into two forks, also called the South and the North. Historically the South Fork ran into Tulare Lake, which is now generally dry, and the North Fork emptied into the San Joaquin River. But there are a number of man made canals and sloughs that connect the forks to each other and to other waterways. Its a complicated situation as communities and water districts try to sustain their water supply by funneling off “excess” water from the river to replenish their ground water supplies. As a result, the South Fork only delivers water to the dry Lake Tulare basin during flood conditions, and the overall flow on the North Fork is likewise diminished. I’m certainly not an authority on water management, politics, and conservation, but spending time hiking along the Kings River and driving through the vast irrigated agricultural tracts of the Central Valley deepens my understanding and concerns.

Finally, prior to our launching Footpaths I had no idea of the role that not-for-profit land conservancies play in preserving ecologically significant greenspaces. In total, over 61 million acres have been protected across the United States. That is greater than the land area of all the national parks combined. For that reason we will give a shout out to Kings River Conservancy, a non-profit land conservancy whose purpose “is to advocate for and protect the Lower Kings River for the benefit of the community at large”. The Northside River Access Park is just one of the venues they sponsor to ensure that the public has the opportunity to experience the beauty of the Kings River.

In summary, our visit to the lower Kings River did give us a better understanding of the central California landscape and ecosystem. It leads one to recognize the complexity of the water management decisions that need to be made with regards to the Kings River, as well as many other watersheds throughout the west. While water is a renewable resource it is not limitless, and the needs of communities and nature need to be balanced. It was exciting to see so many folks utilizing and experiencing this outstanding natural resource. I’m not sure that I will ever get the chance, but I think that I would like to hike more of the “Ribbon of Gems” string of parks and preserves that make up this river corridor.

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Photo credits to Peggy Juengling Burns, Ellen Burns and Patrick Burns.

Overview:

Location – 31 miles east of Fresno, in Sanger, California.

Parking – paved lot for 11 cars.

Facilities – restroom at the parking lot.

Trail Conditions – bare dirt and native rock/gravel. This is an out and back trail.

Print Trail Map Link – none.

Benches – several along the trails.

Picnic Tables – near the parking area and along the trail.

Kids – four and over should do well.

Dogs – welcomed on a leash.

Paired Hiking Trails – there is a “Raptor Walk” trail just across the spillway on the south bank of the river and there are other parks that make up the “Ribbon of Gems” corridor of greenspace on the lower Kings River.

Links:

https://www.kingsriverconservancy.org/north-riverside

https://www.kingsriverconservancy.org/

Here is a link to our article on hiking along the upper Kings River in Kings Canyon National Park – https://footpathsblog.com/2024/10/06/kings-canyon-national-park/