When you think about Yosemite, big features come to mind: The massive granite bluffs and outcroppings, the giant Sequoia trees, and the impressive waterfalls. But Yosemite is much more than that. It is the relatively pristine Sierra Nevada habitats, be they deep in a forested stream valley, in a meadow, or high on an exposed alpine crest. As we were repetitively awestruck by the renowned features of the park, we had to remind ourselves to not look past the other stuff; lesser known trees, wildflowers, butterflies, and birds which were generally all new species to us. Luckily I have surrounded myself with scientists who have an artistic bent, pay attention to detail, and help ensure that we do not miss any great finds.
The purpose of the title photo is to say the obvious. To really immerse yourself in Yosemite you have to get off the beaten path somewhat. That photo was taken as our group enjoyed the El Capitan Meadow – one of three trails that we took to get away from the crowds and more deeply into the Sierra Nevada ecosystems.
To be honest, the floral display announced itself as we drove in. On the wooded hillsides along Highway 41, as well as the roads just inside the park’s gate, we noted a flood of flower color. Because they were unfamiliar species we spoke in general terms – “Did you see that blanket of light blue flowers?” “There was something back there that looked like a Columbine”. Once we were on the trail at the Mariposa Grove, things changed and slowed down, allowing time for more studied assessments. Suddenly we had turned the clock back – it was the second week of June in California and we were seeing cousins of the mid-April flowers from home. The winter snows had just melted in the Sierras ushering in an abbreviated “spring” season.
The first of these was the Western Azalea. Characteristic of the species, it had colonized a moist streamside and offered a subtle but notable fragrance. The flowers can range from white to pink, but usually have a tinge of yellow on one of the petals.
Another spring flower was the Pacific Dogwood tree which was in full bloom. Unlike our Flowering Dogwood of the eastern U.S., it blooms after it has already leafed out.
In the same area we saw banks of these 5 to 6 foot tall and broad shrubs of the California Lilac, which was a lure for the pollinators.
One of the more common wildflowers, and one certainly noticeable from the car, was the Wallflower. It typically stood about 20 inches tall and occurred in clusters making them standout.
Dancing amongst these blooms were the ever present Pale Swallowtail. It was not uncommon to see 4 or 5 in your line of sight.
On the forested hillsides of the Mariposa Grove we saw this unique plant – Snow Plant. Its name arises because it first emerges in the spring when snow may still be on the ground. It does not contain chlorophyll or carry out photosynthesis, but rather it gets its nutrition from fungi in the soil. Therefore it is frequently found in the areas of the forest with less sunlight where it has little competition. Its scientific name is Sarcodes sanguinea. Sarcodes means “resembling flesh”, and sanguinea means “blood red. Both appropriately descriptive.
As we ventured deeper into the wooded hillsides, and further from the crowds, the flora display continued. The Hartwig’s Iris ranges from a pastel purple to white. Sometimes you would see both colors within a few feet of each other.
One of the more interesting sightings, in the same area as the irises, was Yosemite Mountain Rose. These were small low growing plants, about the size of a dinner plate, and typically each would have just a single flower in bloom. Like the azaleas, they were fragrant. The flowers were quite large, averaging about 2 inches.
Another plant noted was Bear Clover, a small fern like shrub. It is not a true clover but rather is a member of the rose family. Interestingly however, it is a nitrogen fixer like clovers, taking nitrogen from the air and depositing it in the soil which benefits its neighboring plants. It also goes by the name of Mountain Misery due to the sticky substance it exudes. In the second photo below you can see the flower of Bear Clover on a different specimen. As plants are generally classified based on their flower structure, you can see why it was placed in the rose family. It is very similar to the flower of simple rose.
A unique plant that we would see in sunny spots on the forest floor was Whiskerbrush. Its leaves occurred in whirls along the single stem.
The Yosemite meadows offered up a different variety of flowers. Not surprisingly, the Sierra Nevada region is home to beautiful Lupines. Twenty-six species of Lupines have been identified in Yosemite.
A similar appearing flower at first glance is Sierra Penstemon, which is also found in the meadows. We found this specimen in the El Capitan Meadow.
California Showy Milkweed was a flower that looked familiar to us. Its structure suggested milkweed, but the flowers were larger than our typical milkweeds. Like most milkweeds, pollinators feasted on its nectar.
On the edge of the meadows and along the forest edges of the valleys we saw the Mariposa Lily. I was impressed when Caroline, who had been reading about Sierra Nevada wildflowers, noted and named it on first sight. The tubers of these were an important food source for the indigenous peoples of the region, either boiled, baked in an earthen oven, or roasted in ashes of a fire. While we only saw the white variety, it is reported that Yosemite hosts a rarer form with deep wine-red flower petals.
Another forest edge plant, the Grand Dandelion, was displaying its seed head, which was about the size of a tennis ball. The Grand Dandelion is native to western North America, unlike the dandelion found in the eastern U.S. which is native to Europe.
The bird population was also constantly on display. If we did not see them, we heard them as their songs filled the air. Our Merlin apps were very helpful in identifying what we were hearing.
Perhaps my favorite was the White-headed Woodpecker. We constantly heard them at work, but with the elevated canopy of the Yosemite forests, they were hard to see or photograph.
In the El Capitan Meadow along the Merced River we saw these male and female Brewer’s Blackbirds foraging. In the winter they feed on seeds, but in the spring and summer their diet is almost exclusively insects. These two were within a few yards of each other and I suspect that they had a nest nearby and were collecting food for their brood. Note that each has an insect in its beak.
Other birds seen included: Northern Rough-winged Swallow, Pacific Wren, , and the MacGillivay’s Warbler.
I would have loved to have spent more time watching the wildlife around the Merced River. The swallows did their aerial acrobatics above its surface and many waterfowl glided with its flow.
Common Merganser
A small group of what appeared to be Eared Grebe fed along the opposite shore of the Merced.
Some of the more animated characters seen on our hikes were the broad collection from the squirrel family:
California Ground Squirrel and Western Gray Squirrel – the former rarely climb trees and nest in burrows, and the latter rarely touches the ground.
There are 7 species of Chipmunks that call Yosemite home and this one appears to be the Longeared Chipmunk. At 9 inches in length, it is approximately twice the size of the chipmunks we see in the Ohio River Valley, and its features are somewhat long ears and a tail that is over 3 inches in length.
We saw some lizards darting amongst the stones and downed trees that bordered the trail. They are subspecies of the fence lizard. The first is the Sierra Fence Lizard.
Another appears to be a Western Fence Lizard. Note the more clearly defined stripes on the body.
Because I’m a tree guy I have to share these photos of Ponderosa Pine. While the Ponderosa Pines at Yosemite were huge, they were dwarfed by the Sequoias and therefore get little mention. I particularly like the orange bark with black fissures.
But up close the bark takes on a crafty, artistic texturing.
Lastly we will share one last butterfly photo, a Lorquin’s Admiral.
In summary, Yosemite is known for its hallmarks – impressively large Sequoias, towering waterfalls, and immense granite bluffs, which are all outstanding. But for me it was the broad range of different habitats in close proximity that added interest to our visit. These environs exposed us to a collection of new species. At first it can be a challenge and seem overwhelming, but then you realize that the specimens have characteristics similar to their cousins from other parts of the country that we are familiar with, and that helps us narrow down our study. The unique habitats in Yosemite appeared to be very healthy and were teaming with wildlife, which made our ventures into the wilderness more exciting.
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Photo credits to Peggy Juengling Burns, Patrick Burns, Caroline Burns, James Grizzle, Ellen Burns, Marie Burns Dawson, and Joe Dawson.
Overview:
Location – Mariposa, California, 62 miles from Fresno.
Parking – many paved and gravel lots.
Facilities – restrooms at the Welcome Centers and at the picnic areas in the park.
Trail Conditions – asphalt, bare dirt, pine needles, and native rock/gravel.
Print Trail Map Link – you are given a park map that includes the hiking trails at entry.
Benches – throughout the park and on every trail that we hiked.
Picnic Tables – in the formal picnic areas.
Kids – four and over should do well.
Dogs – are prohibited on most trails. Please see website for more information.
Links:
SPRING’S A BLOOMIN HERE FOR SURE