The Path to Castle Stalker – Appin, Scotland

I think that my cousins chose this one for the photographer – appreciating her interests in medieval history, the romance of castles, and the photogenic nature of the castle perched on a small island in Loch Laich, a tidal inlet off the larger Loch Linnhe, which connects with the Atlantic Ocean.

The path was unique for our Scotland outings, on a dual use trail – a rails to trails paved path with little terrain change and sure footing. Previously the Ballachulish Branch of the Callander and Oban Railway ran along this bed, carrying farm produce, fresh fish, and roofing slate to Edinburgh and Glasgow.

We were not alone as it appeared to be a well utilized community resource. In addition to bicyclists and runners, there was limited but occasional vehicular traffic that allowed people access to the several small marinas located on the Loch.

The setting provided for many jig-saw puzzle worthy images.

Unusual for Footpaths, this trail wove through a mix of settings. While at times we had nice nature or agricultural scenes, at other times we found ourselves amongst commercial and industrial sites such as this old boat yard. It was a new canvas for the photographer to work with.

More typical of her work was catching images of the Eurasian Oystercatchers as they worked the kelp beds at low tide.

Or this stream that originated in the Nevis Mountains foothills and emptied into the loch.

The highlight of the hike was seeing Castle Stalker. We got our first view when there was an opening in some of the plants that stood between the bike path and the waters of the Loch, captured here with a telephoto lens.

Eventually there was an access path that headed down to the beach that overlooked Castle Stalker and allowed for better visualization.

By walking on a narrow, slanting concrete pier we could get even closer.

The view was outstanding and with the use of the telephoto lens or binoculars one could appreciate the age, construction style, and detail of the castle.

Castle Stalker was initially built in 1440 by the Stewart Clan, but transferred to the Campbell Clan in 1620 following a drunken bet. It was abandoned in the 1840s after its roof caved in, but was later refurbished in 1910, and again in the 1960s and 1970s. It remains in private ownership and is open to the public for tours at selected times.

We ventured further down the trail to get additional views of the castle from differing angles.

As we did so we were could view the small community across the estuary.

There was opportunity to carry the hike on further, including crossing the estuary on a boardwalk, but we had other adventures to get to. That is the conflict that you experience when you find yourself in the menagerie of greenspace and history that Scotland is.

Near the turnaround point we found the remnants of the old Appin railway station with its platforms still intact. In the mid 1800’s the railway was at its peak and continued to thrive until private car ownership became more common. The Ballachulish slate quarry, perhaps its biggest customer, closed in 1955 and the railway line ceased operations in 1966.

Along the path we enjoyed some pleasant botanical observations including these two members of the aster family.

But also displayed were numerous invasive species. While still beautiful, they displace and out compete native plants, forever changing the local habitat and ecosystem.

Crocossmia – this one surprised me because I grow it in my garden and have never seen it naturalized in the States, but here it was abundant along the old railway line. It is native to the grasslands of Africa.

Meadow Vetchling – also known as Yellow Pea. It is a native to Eurasia.

Tutsan – a member of the St. John’s Wort family, is native to Western Europe, the Middle East and North African. Historically it was widely planted in gardens for its medicinal uses (gout, depression, water retention). With its abundant seed production it spreads quickly.

And finally there was the beautiful Black Knapweed. My plant app initially identified it as a Thistle but it lacked the bristles and stiff leaves. Some authorities say that it is non-native while others list it as native to Scotland. The term “black” comes from the dark coloration of the bulbous structure supporting the flower head.

It is stories like these, as well as the spread of the American Mink, the Gray Squirrel, and Japanese Knotweed, that has led Scotland to enact what many to consider the most aggressive law on preventing the spread of invasive species. Basically, it is against the law to release or allow the spread of a foreign species, plant or animal, into the wild. The law itself is concise and well written, but I could not find any reference to the record of enforcement of it online.

One of the stars on the walk were the Rowan Trees, with their abundant red berries. In British Isles folklore, the Rowan Tree protects against witchcraft and enchantment. They were frequently planted alongside homes and churches to ward off evil, and jewelry was made of the wood to provide individual protection. The berries have been used to make a variety of alcoholic drinks including the popular Rowanberry wine and a variety of gins in the Scottish Highlands, an type of ale in Wales called Diodgriafel, and a flavored mead in Ireland. Today Rowan berry jelly is still made in Scotland and is traditionally eaten with game.

I’m always taken back when I see palm trees or other tropicals in the British Isles. While they are not natives to the islands, the Gulf Stream ensures milder winters that allow them to survive. At one of the marinas we saw this New Zealand Cabbage Tree which is also known as Torquay palm. These were landscape trees, were not naturalized into the environment, and do not appear to self seed.

In summary, while this hike was “a little less natural” than our other hikes in Scotland, it was no less rewarding. I enjoyed the integration of the settings: agricultural, marine, estuary, and historic. And the castle itself was outstanding.

Since we returned to the States I have been researching Castle Stalker and was tickled to learn that it was featured in the Monty Python and the Holy Grail movie as Castle Aaarrgghh (I have provided a link for the video segment at the end of the article). As I reflect on the our group tooling down the bike path, with the photographer limping with a foot injury, and my brother dragging his right leg behind him due to a hamstring tear, it conjures up a scene worthy of Monty Python.

For this, and the laughs that Monty Python gave my young adulthood, I offer a toast to Castle Stalker (Castle Aaarrgghh).

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Photo credits to Peggy Juengling Burns

Overview:

Location –

And Google Maps gave us a laugh – the Appin Station is temporarily closed – since 1966.

Parking – pull off lot alongside motorway A828 for about 15 cars.

Trail Conditions – the majority of the path is asphalt except for the side paths to the shoreline or toward the estuary which were gravel.

Trail Map Link – none.

Benches – none that I recall.

Picnic Tables – none.

Kids – 4 and older should do well here. Also a good trail for biking or walking with strollers/trams as it is relatively unbusy

Dogs – welcomed on a leash.

Suggested Paired Hikes – Highland Titles Nature Reserve is about 3 miles west on A828

Links:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castle_Stalker

https://www.castlestalker.com/wp/

Monty Python – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PckeXD7Xyc

6 comments

    • Joe from Herb and Thelma’s is a friend and he has a social media theme where their “rock” glass travels with their patrons. I also took it to The Old Course at St. Andrews Golf Links.

  1. Hi, fir more info on the route you were travelling in (Caledonia Way) have a look mat this link – https://caledoniaway.com/

    The route is part of the National Cycle Network, developed by the walking and cycling charity, Sustrans. Thanks. Tom

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